The All-You-Need Guide to Matera, Italy

Honestly, we weren’t quite sure what to expect when we arrived in Matera, Italy. We’d seen a few photos and knew it was featured in a James Bond movie, but beyond that, it was a bit of a mystery. As the 2019 European Capital of Culture, we were eager to experience this ancient gem in the Basilicata region. For our one-night stay, we booked a cave hotel, arranged a private guided tour, and snagged a last-minute reservation at a local restaurant—ready to dive into everything Matera had to offer.

In Matera, caves are a way of life—you can sleep in a cave (highly recommended!), dine in a cave, and even experience contemporary art in cave galleries. The city’s ancient districts, known as the Sassi, are a fascinating maze of grottoes carved directly into limestone. If you look closely, you’ll even spot fossils and seashells embedded in the stone—a quiet reminder of the land’s ancient past.

But Matera wasn’t always the cultural hotspot it is today. Until 1952, it was considered a national shame—a symbol of deep poverty in southern Italy. Entire families lived in these caves without electricity, running water, or sanitation. Malaria, high infant mortality, and overcrowding were rampant. It wasn’t until the release of Carlo Levi’s powerful book, Christ Stopped at Eboli, that the plight of Matera’s residents gained national attention. Between 1953 and 1968, about half of the city’s 30,000 inhabitants were relocated to modern housing developments.

Today, there’s still an ongoing conversation: Did modernization save Matera or erase a unique way of life? Regardless of the answer, the city’s transformation is nothing short of extraordinary.

Although Matera was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1993, it still feels refreshingly undiscovered. As we wandered through the ancient Sassi, marveling at the cave dwellings and stone pathways, we were struck by how quiet and unspoiled it felt—like stepping into a hidden chapter of history.

WALK THROUGH MATERA

We valeted our car at our cave hotel and met our guide for a fascinating walking tour that led us through ancient churches, winding alleys, and hidden museums. After the two-hour tour, we set off on our own to explore—and getting lost in Matera is part of the magic.

We wandered through a maze of gray stone houses, steep staircases, and breathtaking viewpoints. The architecture is unlike anywhere else: buildings seem to grow out of the hillside, layered one on top of another. In many spots, a home’s rooftop doubles as a street for the building above it. Originally carved from the rock, many of these ancient caves were later expanded with stone façades to resemble more traditional homes.

Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with roots tracing back to the Paleolithic period. Just across the river ravine, you can still see the Neolithic cave dwellings where people lived over 7,000 years ago—a humbling and awe-inspiring sight.

EAT

Yes, Matera even has its own Michelin-starred restaurant—you can book in advance here.

We chose to dine at the ultra-modern, artfully designed Dimora Ulmo Ristorante, and it was an unforgettable experience. The sleek, futuristic interiors made us feel like we’d stepped into a Stanley Kubrick film—in the best way possible. The service was impeccable, the food outstanding, and every detail felt curated with care.

You can view the menu and reserve a table here.

STAY

Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita

This breathtaking 18-room hotel is the result of a decade-long restoration that transformed ancient caves into a serene and atmospheric retreat. Modern comforts are seamlessly woven into the raw beauty of the stone surroundings, with simple wooden furnishings that enhance its monastic, minimalist charm. Breakfast is served in a beautifully preserved 13th-century church, complete with strong espresso and quiet ambiance—it’s truly an experience.

Il Palazzotto Residence & Winery

We stayed at this intimate, 10-room boutique hotel set in a 16th-century palace, and it was nothing short of magical. The interiors feature a clean, minimalist design that beautifully contrasts with the warm, natural stone walls. One highlight? Sampling wine from the family’s vineyard, located about 75 miles away at the base of the Monte Vulture volcano—a unique and delicious connection to the region’s roots.

HOW TO GET TO MATERA

Matera pairs perfectly with a trip through Puglia and is easy to reach from several nearby towns. We personally drove from Bari Airport, which takes just about an hour and offers scenic countryside views along the way.

You can also reach Matera by train, though it’s important to note that the route from Bari is operated by a private company and runs on a slower commuter schedule—plus, there are no trains on Sundays. Tickets cost around €5 each way and the journey takes approximately 1.5 hours. You can check the current schedule on the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane website.

Trains to Matera depart from the FAL station, located next to Bari’s main train station. Once you arrive at Matera Centrale, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the Sassi, or you can hop on the local “Linea Sassi” bus for convenience.

For us, Matera was truly unforgettable—stunning views, rich history, and incredible food, all wrapped in a refreshingly undiscovered atmosphere.

Want help planning your Matera adventure? Let Nomoon take care of the details! We work with trusted local partners, guides, and boutique hotels to craft unforgettable experiences tailored just for you.